Birding the Enchanting Atherton Tablelands

As we walked up the trail at Mount Lewis, I asked Ross to help me describe the forest all around us. He looked around then looked back at me and said, “That’s your job. I find the birds, it’s better if you describe getting them.” (Full disclaimer, this blog is not a job, I do not get paid to have it, in fact it costs me money to keep it, but I do it because I like it!)

So allow me to set the scene. It’s early morning. A cool breeze runs through the air. Up in elevation at 1,200m (4,000ft) the temperature could only be described as crisp. The sun is shining and the sky is blue. It’s actually quite pleasant. Vine tangles, large trees, small trees and every size tree in between, along with at least a dozen species of ferns, palms, bushes and shrubs make up the wet tropical rainforest. Many mabi species, the type of tree most commonly growing in this area, lose their leaves in the dry season (unlike the trees in wetter rainforests) allowing a dense shrub layer to fill the space between the trunks. The forest is quite dense. There are mossy covered stones dotting the trail and decaying fallen trees, some so big you must sit on top to climb over. And if you pause to take in the scents, there is an undeniable freshness about the forest, as if the color green had a smell. It feels very natural and remote despite being arguably the most popular birding location in all of Australia: Mount Lewis in The Atherton Tablelands.

A significant number of the highest rainforest-covered mountains within the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area are, for the most part, inaccessible. The 28 km Mount Lewis drive, which has become one of the most favored destinations for birdwatchers, is a notable exception. The Atherton Tablelands, a highland region of northern Australia near Cairns, Queensland, hold a whole slew of endemic bird species. Birders from all over Australia the world come to The Atherton Tablelands because there is so much to see. Leeches might be one of the first creatures to find you, and I may or may not have even pulled a leech off of Roger’s face while he napped in the carrier strapped to my chest. The flora and fauna in this corner of the country is so unique that it is almost always a very enjoyable experience. (I’m joking about the leeches. We really didn’t have a big problem with them so I’m not sure how one found its way onto my infant’s face while he was asleep in the carrier…)

We spent several hours walking, almost a daily ritual at this point in our trip with Roger riding inside the carrier as if he was a joey in a pouch. He seemed to be getting used to this routine and, if I dare imply, likes it. He simply looks around and points at the birds he spots. Ross and I are becoming more and more impressed with his bird spotting abilities. Even though he is only 11 months old, sometimes he hears a sound and then turns his head to locate it. We joke that he must think that pointing at birds is all anyone ever does because so far that’s the only life he knows. He especially loves pointing at parrots because they are so loud and ostentatious, but while we were in Mount Lewis Roger pointed out the Golden Bowerbird instead, an endemic of the Wet Tropics region. Golden Bowerbird was actually the reason that we trekked 7 kilometers roundtrip inside the forest at Mount Lewis. We made it to a bower, an elaborate stick structure built by a male in order to impress a female, and watched as the colorful male sat overlooking his work.
During this walk we also had great views of Chowchilla, Tooth-billed Bowerbird, Atherton Scrubwren, Victoria’s Riflebird, and many more. (I’ll share an eBird checklist from this outing at the end of the post!)

And while the forest is great birding, the roads are equally so. After our hike we decided to venture down into the lower elevations and bird along the roads. We managed to find a group of Blue-faced Parrotfinches feeding quietly at a recent stakeout and a few Lovely Fairly Wrens nearby.

The city of Cairns is located just over 1.5 hours away from where we were walking in the Atherton Tablelands. It’s very common for birdwatchers to make this particular trip because they can also tack on a trip to Cairns, a coastal city allowing access to wetlands and estuaries, rainforest areas, and mangrove habitats. We spent a good bit of time walking the Cairns Esplanade in search of waders but despite lots of Great/Red Knots, Tattlers, Terek Sandpiper, and Bar-tailed Godwit, we somehow missed one of our most important targets, Beach Thick-knee.

While I’m on the topic of dipping birds, I must talk about what is quite possibly our worst dip for the entire trip. Somehow, we managed to miss arguably Australia’s most quintessential bird, Southern Cassowary. In case you were wondering, cassowaries stand approximately 5 to 6.6 feet (1.5 to 2 meters) tall and adult cassowaries can weigh between 100 to 160 pounds (45 to 73 kilograms). The Australian cassowary is known for its status as one of the world’s heaviest and most dangerous birds. You might think seeing such a big bird would be easy, especially since they are known to wander along the roads or up the beach. We checked Etty Bay Road and the Mission Beach area but unfortunately couldn’t located a single cassowary! (We weren’t alone in this endeavor, we met multiple birders in the area searching for this bird with no luck.) I found it frustrating because there isn’t really anything you can do to find a Southern Cassowary other than drive around in the areas they are commonly seen. It’s not like you can simply call one in or use skill to find one. Without luck on your side, Southern Cassowary is simply going undetected.

I was really bummed to miss such a unique bird, but I promise I will go back for this one! Someday, when I attend the Australian Open tennis tournament, (a big bucket list item) I will tack on a trip back to Cairns so I can see Southern Cassowary! And also so I can snorkel in the Great Barrier Reef, another activity that had to be saved for another day.

This birding took place late August 2023
eBird checklist from Mt Lewis here
And here’s the eBird hotspot for Mount Lewis clearing if you want to check it out. Lots of great birds to be had!