Well, we made it.
If you read my last post, you know that getting to Colonia Carlos Pellegrini (CCP) was no small feat. Honestly, I can’t stress enough how much trouble we’d have been in if the rains had hit just an hour earlier. But we made it—and so did the rain. So, what now?
Iberá Wetlands
We were birding within the Iberá Provincial Nature Reserve (Reserva Natural Provincial del Iberá, AKA the Iberá Wetlands), a massive ecosystem teeming with diverse wildlife. Think capybaras, yacaré caimans, marsh deer, black-and-gold howler monkeys, giant otters, anacondas, maned wolves, turtles, and over 350 species of birds. Think incredible biodiversity.
Our top targets included Yellow Cardinal and Saffron-cowled Blackbird, along with a variety of intriguing seedeaters and a monjita. Sadly, the blackbird, our highest priority, was off the table due to the impassable road leading to its habitat. (Ironically, we had driven right by the spot on our way to CCP but opted not to stop because of the looming storm. Ross briefly considered it, but the ominous sky ahead convinced us to press on straight to our lodging.) Still, we held out hope for our other targets.
Ross had originally coordinated with a local bird guide to visit a known hotspot for Saffron-cowled Blackbirds. But with the heavy rain and wind no vehicle could get anywhere near it. So, we pivoted. For the day, we were limited to birding within a few kilometers of our hotel—on roads that were, to put it generously, barely passable. (And don’t forget, we were driving a Toyota Corolla!)
Roger and I spent most of the first day hanging out at our hotel, darting between our room and the lounge whenever the downpours eased up. Meanwhile, Ross braved the rain, birding along the small stretch of road that was accessible to him. Despite the poor conditions and limited range, he easily tallied over 100 species. The sheer abundance of birds in this area is nothing short of incredible. Thousands of marsh birds filled the landscape, including more Snail Kites and Fork-tailed Flycatchers than we could count, along with Marsh, Rufous-rumped, and Chestnut Seedeaters.
Luckily the endangered Yellow Cardinal can be found at the outskirts of town and after stopping and talking to a local landowner, Ross found a pair. He returned to the hotel for me and Roger and we were soon enjoying a lovely pair of Yellow Cardinals in between rain showers.
That evening, the rain finally stopped, giving us hope for better conditions the next day.
Early the following morning, Ross ventured down a side road that had been previously flooded. (He still had to walk. No way a car could tackle the slippery mud.) During his walk however, he struck gold, finding a Black-and-White Monjita, one of his biggest targets. (Roger and I opted for breakfast at the hotel instead.) In just over an hour, Ross recorded more than 80 species, including an astonishing 1,100 Rosy-billed Pochards flying overhead. I simply can’t overstate how “birdy” this area is.
Driving Out
By 8:00 AM, Ross was back at the hotel, and we began our journey south toward civilization and better roads. We wished we could have stayed longer, but more heavy rain was forecasted and we couldn’t risk missing our flight home. Already we were a bit nervous about the wet roads. Thankfully the southern access roads out of CCP were in “better” shape than the ones we came in on, but we still encountered several precarious sections, thanks to ongoing construction.
At one point, we faced a “just keep swimming, just keep swimming” moment, with no way to turn around and little margin for error through the mud. Despite these challenges, we managed to spot 117 species that morning, including a new one for us: Bearded Tachuri.
The rest of the day was spent driving south toward Buenos Aires. We detoured into Parque Nacional El Palmar at dusk and managed to add a few more lifers to our list, including Glaucous-blue Grosbeak and Gray-throated Warbling Finch.
Reflecting on this leg of the trip, it’s clear that the Iberá Wetlands is a special place—even when nature gives you torrential rains. The abundance and diversity of wildlife here make every effort worthwhile, and I can’t wait to return under sunnier skies and stay a bit longer!
This birding took place October 17-18, 2023
Sample ebird checklists: HERE, HERE, and HERE
Love your posts! You folks have the best adventures.